Persuading Doggie That the New Food Really Tastes Better
If you’ve learned enough about dog food to have decided that it’s time to change what your dog has been eating to a more healthy dog food, you need to develop a plan of action. Your dog may have both physical and emotional difficulty in switching to a new food, because just like us, dogs do have comfort foods. So you should do your switching gradually, to spare your pet any digestive problems or stress.
Although we see many dogs as hardy creatures and marvel at what they manage to eat, the fact is that a dog’s digestive system if very sensitive. It is important to gradually change a dog’s diet slowly and over time. Be on the look out for any adverse effects caused by the change, and consult a veterinarian if any symptoms persist for more than a few days.
By not changing a dog’s diet slowly, you may subject your pet to:
- Stomach cramps
- Excess Gas
- Heartburn
- Indigestion
- Diarrhea
- Vomiting
- Refusal to Eat
Even though you have found a healthier alternative to the current dog food, you dog may not know that and as a creature of habit, would prefer the old to the new. With this in mind, the first few tries may be difficult. However, with a few simple tricks and tips, the transition should be easy.
Gradual change to a more healthy dog food is the key, so start by mixing the old and new food together in a 25% to 75% ratio of new to old. Over the next few days, slowly increase the ratio of new food while decreasing the old food. At the end of this process, the new food will make up 100% of the food bowl.
The Kibble to BARF Transition
The switch from dry kibble to the BARF diet needs to be done with a few considerations in mind and a more watchful eye, as some dogs will have problems switching. There are two methods used when switching dogs over to the BARF diet.
The Quick Switch
This is the popular choice as it is easy, fast, and hassle free. You simply make the switch with the next meal. Considerations to keep in mind when making the Rapid Switch whether or not you believe your dog can handle such a change. Usually, younger dogs and those dogs that have a healthy, normal gastrointestinal system are the ones able to handle such a switch.
Dogs that are older or that have problems with their digestive system may have issues, as they can not tolerate kibble and raw food in their digestive tract at the same time. This can result in vomiting and diarrhea. This also means that owners have no choice but to hold off the rapid switch food.
The Slow Switch:
This method takes time, sometimes a significant amount of time, to fully switch from kibble to the BARF diet. It is not recommended to continue feeding the dog both kibble and BARF as this will lead to digestion problems. It needs to be one or the other.
There are three ways to go about the Slow Switch.
The first is simple enough; you feed the dog a meal of the BARF diet and a meal of the old food. Each day decrease the amount of meals of the old food until your dog’s meals are nothing but the BARF diet.
The second way is mixing the old food in with the BARF diet and gradually decrease the amount of old food until the dog is eating nothing but the BARF diet. A problem with this way comes in when the dog can not keep both kibble and BARF diet in its systems at the same time. If this is the case, you will have to follow the Rapid Switch method.
The last way is for owners who were already feeding their dog home cooked foods. Slowly introduce the dog to rawer states of those foods until he is eating nothing but the raw food. However, if the dog suffers from an immune deficiency and can not eat raw food, owners can cook the BARF diet, though this is not recommended for healthy dogs.
If you realize that your dog is not eating a healthy diet, then by all means make whatever changes are necessary to rectify the situation. Just do it in a way which eases the transition for you pal so that meal times still remain the high points of his or her day!
Sharda Baker has published several dog ebook and audios, including the internet best selling “Complete Guide to Your Dog’s Nutrition”.
Visit the link below now for Sharda’s Special Free Dog Food Report.
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Store-Bought, Or Home Made: What’s A Dog Owner to Do?
The massive pet food recall of 2007 had millions of dog owners terrified that they had unwittingly been poisoning their beloved pets. If you and your dog survived that frightening time, you have undoubtedly been more careful in your choice of dog foods ever since. But how is the average dog owner to know what’s really going into doggie’s dish? One way to know for sure is to make your pet’s food at home, but that can be very time-consuming. The other option is to know which commercial food is the the best dog food, that is both safe and nutritious.
The question of what to feed your dog is a sensitive one as there are many different camps advocating many different ideas, facts, and theories. For many owners, the question is solved by finances. To put is simply, if the owner can afford the dog food then that type and brand is going to go into the food bowl. While this approach may seem sensible, especially when the monthly budget is taken into consideration, it may not be best. Why feed the dog sub-par ingredients and face vet bills later on that may have been avoided in the first place by choosing the right food?
The dog foods found on most grocery store shelves, the generic or store brand ones, are not usually considered among the best foods for your pet. More often than not, these brands are full of ingredients that are lower in quality and inexpensive. While these brands provide a cheaper alternative to the other brands, they are generally not recommended. A quick glance at the ingredients can provide an example of lower quality food.
Generic meat ingredients without a specific species named is not a good thing to feed a dog. Avoid phrases such as “meat byproducts” or “meat and bone meal”. Look for brands that can list the animal that they use as an ingredient, like “chicken meal” or “beef”. Also, avoid any brands that list corn as their main ingredient. You are feeding a dog, after all, and not a pig or a cow.
But, you say, Fido is delighted with the store brand food, which retails for half of what the brand names do? That’s because Fido’s been tricked. Chemicals have been added to that food, creating a pleasing color and aroma which Fido finds irresistible and which hides the fact that the food is not one of the best dog foods. These chemicals are easy enough to spot if you know what to look for. Coloring agents, drying agents, and texturizers are just some of the tell-tale ingredients that should cause you to sit up and take notice.
There are, of course, premium commercial dog foods which provide the highest grade ingredients free of harmful additives, and in another newsletter we’ll explore how to find them. But they will cost a premium price, and if you are a hands-on dog owner, you might be more interested in preparing your pet’s meals yourself.
This option of making pet food at home has become more and more popular over the past few years as it allows owners to choose directly what is going into their dog’s bowl. Feeding doggie homemade food, however, does not mean allowing him or her to dine on the family’s leftovers. It means researching the proper balance of proteins, carbohydrates, and fats for your dog, and finding the foods which will provide them in an easily digestible form. One of the best known homemade diets for the canine set is the BARF diet.
And now–what does BARF stand for? Seems you can say it stands for a couple of things, but the most often cited explanation is Bones And Raw Food. The other one floating around on the Internet is Biologically Appropriate Raw Food, which is attributed to Dr. Ian Billinghurst, one of the original Barfers.
The BARF Diet is suitable for many dogs but it takes time and dedication on the owner’s part. While there are noticeable differences between the BARF diet and a diet based on commercial dog foods, the purpose of both diets is to provide the dog with the best nutrients possible.
BARF is about feeding a biologically appropriate diet for a dog that is made up of raw whole foods like those eaten by their ancestors. This would include muscle meat, bone, fat, organ meat and vegetable materials and any other foods that mimic what the wild ancestors ate.
The BARF diet, however, is not always the best method of feeding your dog and it takes a great amount of time to prepare and research the foods. Conversely, commercial brand dog foods have undergone several tests to insure that they are compatible with the dietary needs of the dog. Basically, a dog will receive just about the same benefits of the BARF diet if he remains on a commercial diet and may even receive more nutrients that way.
The important thing you, as a dog owner, should know is that commercial dog food is not all the same. You can learn much more about what is in each can, pouch, or bag of dog food by becoming educated in label reading, and the AAFCO standards. Ultimately, it’s up to you to decide what’s the best dog food for your dog.
Sharda Baker has published several dog ebook and audios, including the internet best selling “Complete Guide to Your Dog’s Nutrition”.
Visit the link below now for Sharda’s Special Free Dog Food Report.
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Who’s Minding the Pet Food Store?
While the ultimate responsibility for ensuring that US pet owners are feeding their pets safe and nutritious foods lies with the Department of Agriculture and the same Food and Drug administration which oversees the safety of human food, both of these agencies turn to testing done by the American Feed Control Officials, or AAFCO, to set the standards for what ingredients should be permitted in dog food.
You, as a caring pet owner, will benefit from knowing just how the AAFCO arrives at its recommendations so you are able to then choose the best dog foods for your best friend.
The AAFCO Standards
When it comes to pet food, the AAFCO has created a uniformed model and definition for the ingredients which provides a common understanding of what is in each serving, including a common labeling procedure. That way there is no confusion and no contradictions between differing brands and types of pet food. This information is provided in an annual publication: the AAFCO Manual.
The AAFCO Statement, also referred to as Nutritional Adequacy, is given to those pet foods that have passed the requirements found in the AAFCO Manual. This statement is required on all pet foods and helps to ensure that the pet food is safe. Of course, many manufacturers such as those common to the Premium foods will make strides to go above and beyond the standards set forth by AAFCO.
There are generally two types of AAFCO statements:
- Pet foods with a statement such as “Tested…” have seen an actual trial with cats or dogs eating the product and receiving positive results.
- Those foods with a “Formulated” statement have not seen an actual trial but the product has been manufactured to meet the recommendations and the guideline set forth by AAFCO.
To meet the AAFCO guidelines and to receive the AAFCO Statement, pet foods sold on the market have to be graded and judged before distribution. With AAFCO being the only body to grade and judge the quality of the pet food, it is important to look for the AAFCO statement located on the label.
There are two nutritional profiles used to grade dog food; Adult maintenance and Growth (used for puppies). With these profiles in mind, AAFCO determines the nutrients that are needed for each category. The nutrients must meet standards above the minimum requirement and below the maximum requirement as to avoid deficiencies and over-nutrition respectively. These profiles must be defined on the bag. There is a third profile “Fit for all life stages” which meets stricter requirements and are suitable for both puppies and adults.
The testing protocol that is used by AAFCO has come under fire recently, but the tests used have proven adequate when it comes to determining safe products and products fit for the different nutritional profiles. Dog food manufacturers follow the findings of these tests in order to deliver quality products to the consumer and, of course, to the dogs which benefit from the information and diet that is provided. AAFCO’s tests are among the most trusted and one of the only tests performed on dog food and pet food overall. They have been followed and used as guidelines since the organization’s formation in 1909. These protocols are enough to determine which foods go to the market and which foods are unfit to feed to our dogs.
Now, the AAFCO tests are for a relatively short amount of time compared to the length of the dog’s life span. With this in mind, it is important that other factors are taken into account when deciding the best diet for your pet. While the AAFCO tests are important and even vital when choosing dog food, also keep in mind that your dog may have specialized requirements and circumstances that will affect the results. Trial testing in home is also recommended to make certain that your dog is receiving the needed nutrients without the adverse results.
The AAFCO tests do show us the performance of the food being tested, the digestibility of the nutrients in the food and how willing the dogs are to accept the food. When deficiencies are detected in the AAFCO trials, they are able to be corrected and improved, creating a superior product.
It is important to look for the AAFCO statement when purchasing dog food along with quality ingredients which can be found in Premium foods. While lower quality foods, those containing corn based feed, or items like bone and meat meal, may pass these tests, owners must understand that AAFCO needs to make sure lower quality and higher quality dog food are suitable for purchase.
So don’t settle for the cheapest food with the AAFCO approval statement. You know your dog better than anyone else, and you know his or her special health and energy requirements. Give them the best dog foods you can, within your budget. We’ll discuss in much more detail what the various label ingredients on AAFCO foods really mean for your dog, and you’ll feel much better when the AAFCO’s vigilance is backed up by your own!
Sharda Baker has published several dog ebook and audios, including the internet best selling “Complete Guide to Your Dog’s Nutrition”.
Visit the link below now for Sharda’s Special Free Dog Food Report.
Overfed Dogs Are Overweight Dogs
Perhaps you’d like to ignore the situation, but if your dog is fat, you are cheating it out of the chance to live the best possible life. Overweight dogs are at increased risk of developing painful conditions like arthritis and life-threatening ones like cardiovascular disease or diabetes. They need to go on a dog diet.
Your dog is at your mercy when if comes to meal and snack time, and the only discipline being exercised in doggie’s diet is yours. If you have a hard time turning away from those pleading eyes (and what dog owner doesn’t?) perhaps realizing that you are doing your pet much more harm than good with each unnecessary bite will help you. Statistics show that a recent pet population survey in the USA showed that 40 percent of the pets are overweight.
If your dog is overweight then it is eating more calories than necessary. Period! If your dog is overweight and is otherwise healthy then it is eating way too much. Certainly have your pet examined by your Vet to check for heart, thyroid or other metabolic disorders to rule out a possible medical cause. Be honest with your vet about how much or how little exercise your dog gets, and how often, as well as how much you feed, what and when you feed, and how often you treat.
THE EXCUSES
“Buster won’t shut up unless I give him a treat and he won’t settle at night unless he gets his special smokie sausage.” Bravo for Buster who has successfully learned that if he kicks up a fuss he will get a reward. Talk about negative conditioning here. The owner hasn’t trained Buster properly to have some manners and instead Buster is being rewarded for being a nuisance – a nuisance who will get fat if he keeps eating like that.
And the classic excuse for overweight dogs is the one that goes “Buster won’t eat dog food.” Oh really? Then what does Buster eat? You got it, table scraps and whatever it wants. Once again the dog has succeeded in training the owners to give it what IT wants. And it worked, but the dog is paying the price for it physically. Hard not to overeat when you’re getting the “select” goodies isn’t it? Remember this, it is NOT up to the DOG to choose what it eats in your house – it is up to YOU – the owner. And you choose the best high quality nutritious feed on the market or make it at home.
BUSTER YOU NEED EXERCISE AND GO ON A DOG DIET
First take a good hard look at the food you are feeding. The FIRST ingredients present in the bag of food should be MEAT or meat products, NOT grains like corn.
Before you and Buster start your weight loss journey, get an accurate record of his weight. Then, reduce his total daily ration by one third. That includes his total daily intake like treats and snacks. At the end of two weeks, weigh him again. In the meantime, if he begs – do NOT give in.
If Buster has lost weight at the end of the two week dog diet, then stick to this schedule. If he hasn’t lost any weight, reduce his intake by another one third and also find out if someone else in the house is treating Buster.
If you’re wondering about low cal diets for dogs, you CAN get them, but many vets don’t like to recommend them as they have very restricted fat levels BUT because the fat is reduced the carbs are increased. Increased carb production produces extra insulin that tells the dog’s body to store the unused calories as fat.
CONCLUSION
There are far better ways for you to let your dog experience your love than with too much food. Your pet will almost certainly enjoy spending more time on walks or playing games with you than he or she will when eating alone. There are plenty or nutritious foods which have loads of doggie palate appeal out there, so you should never feel like Buster is missing something by not dining at the family table.
Sharda Baker has published several dog ebook and audios, including the internet best selling “Complete Guide to Your Dog’s Nutrition”.
Visit the link below now for Sharda’s Special Free Dog Food Report.
Is Your Dog Filling Up on Fillers?
There seems to have been a lot of questions of late about nutrition for our dogs. Nutritional science has come a long way in the past few years, and our pets can be the beneficiaries of these findings. Let’s take a few minutes to talk about what is in your dog’s food, and what to avoid.
You can never underestimate the importance of understanding the AAFCO pet nutrition standards and of knowing how to read dog food labeling when choosing a commercial diet for your pet. The AAFCO will give its approval to both low and high quality ingredients, and unless you know exactly what’s in the commercial pet food your dog is getting, you might think everything is just fine.
But there have been problems with many of the lower quality dog foods and the ingredients that are used that have been brought to light in the early part of 2007. Speaking of problems with dog food will of course trigger the memory of the most recent devastating loss of canine and feline lives due to contaminated food.
Various dog food recall reports indicated the numbers of affected cats and dogs hit the 39,000 mark across the country. Animals became extremely sick or died due to the contamination of commercial pet foods with an industrial chemical – melamine, used to make plastics and fertilizers. This chemical was found in more than 100 brands of pet food that were recalled in Canada and the USA starting in mid-March.
The major culprit was identified as rice protein concentrate (otherwise called rice gluten), NOT brown rice. Then in June, concerns were raised about reports of acetaminophen (Tylenol) being found in dog and cat food, followed by salmonella poisoning in others.
The second chemical also found with the melamine was cyanuric acid – deadly when combined. Both were found in the cat and dog food recall in March 2007. Cyanuric acid is commonly used to slow the breakdown of chlorine in swimming pools and hot tubs. It has NO place in pet food!
It was speculated then (and some still hold the same opinion now) that those two chemicals were in dog food because it was a sneaky and unethical way to increase the reported nitrogen content. But the rice gluten contaminate with the melamine was simply what is known as a “filler>”
The dog food recall of those contaminated pet foods has done nothing to stop the use of fillers in lower grade commercial dog foods. Many pet food manufacturers keep their costs down by loading then with bulk which has absolutely no nutritional value. Your pet’s food could one or more of a number of fillers, including:
- Cereal by-products
- Cottonseed hulls
- Citrus pulp
- Peanut hulls
- Weeds
- Straw
- Corn and corncobs
- Feathers
- Soy
These fillers are unfortunately used in the place of quality fiber, and can irritate the walls of your pet’s intestines. Yet as food prices continue to rise, the use of fillers will undoubtedly continue so that dog food manufacturers can keep their costs down.
Even the meat meals which you might think are protein sources in your pet’s food, if they are not of good enough quality, are nothing more than fillers. All the plant materials used as fillers carry a risk of toxic herbicide and pesticide contamination, and soy is one of the top cited allergens by veterinarians, which causes severe allergic reactions. Reactions can include coughing, sneezing, runny nose, hives, diarrhea, facial swelling, shortness of breath, swollen tongue, difficulty swallowing, fainting, and anaphylactic shock.
Higher end brands of dog food, are products both devoid of any byproducts, and containing the healthiest choice of carbohydrates, protein, fiber, and other nutrients.
These nutrients are best when provided with a recognizable name and not some chemical number. Avoid obscure listings like potato product, rice or peanut hulls, and grape pomace. Look for something more recognizable than words that give you only a vague notion of what you are feeding your dog.
Diligence is required in avoiding these foods as many of them are masked with euphemisms and phrases such as “Moist, chewy” or “contains vegetables,” among many more.
Pet food manufacturers pay people good salaries to come up with the words which will entice you to buy their products. You need to know how to read the ingredients behind the descriptions, and decide if they really belong in the dish of your best pal. Don’t let your dog fill up on fillers!
Sharda Baker has published several dog ebook and audios, including the internet best selling “Complete Guide to Your Dog’s Nutrition”.
Visit the link below now for Sharda’s Special Free Dog Food Report.
All About Correctly Brushing Your Dog
There are several staple elements of the grooming of all dogs and all of them can help to boost the health of your dog’s skin and coat. Brushing is undoubtedly one of them and is actually one of the most important elements because of all of the benefits it brings. For example, you can see the improvement in the health of your dog’s coat but it also boosts the skin and the supply of nutrients to it because it encourages the flow of blood underneath the skin.
This may all seem like rather simple ideas and strategies, but seriously, I have clients every day that don’t know how to brush their pet. The biggest hurdle is when brushing only touches the top layer of coat. You need to get all the way down to the skin. I am hopeful this article will bring the necessity of a “good brushing” to light. If you have any questions, be sure to ask.
Your reaction and enthusiasm towards brushing may be along the lines of “Great” I’ll go and grab the brush then!” However, your dog will probably not see it that way to start with, especially when it is dealing with knots and tangles. In fact, unless you go about it the right way you will have to pin your dog down to be able to do it again after the first time. There are many elements of brushing to consider and much depends on the coat of your dog.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT BRUSH
You cannot brush your dog without a brush so the first thing that you need to do is take the time to make sure that you choose the right one. You have to take a lot of factors into account when trying to choose the right ones. For example, the coat plays a big part because longer and coarser quotes will be more prone to matting and tangling than shorter coats. Similarly, harsh brushes are likely to damage the skin on shorter coats because they is no real furry protection available. As such, brush selection is a little difficult but it is an important decision to make so it is essential to ensure that you take your time and make the right choice.
There are numerous brushes that you can choose from. To recap though, there are perhaps five that you have to choose from:
Bristle Brush – The most common of brush types, natural bristles are designed to work in harmony with the skin and the coat in order to get the best possible results. There are various sizes available so you should choose one that suits your dog size and not focus on the coat. The larger the dog, the larger the bristle brush should be. However, there are certain bristles that suit certain coats as well. If your dog has a long coat then wide spaced and longer bristles would suit it best. Tighter bristles are better for short haired coats.
Wire Pin Brush – Pin brushes and wire brushes are ideal for longer coats as well as coats that are curly because they tend to be much stronger than bristle brushes and push through tangles really well. However, they will hurt smooth coated dogs and thus damage the skin so they are best avoided for those dogs.
Slicker Brush – A slicker brush should be used in conjunction with a wire pin brush because it should be used afterwards to smooth the coats of longer haired dogs. Slicker brushes are renowned for removing mats and tangles and so are ideal for double coated dogs but again should be avoided on single coated dogs.
Undercoat Rake – The undercoat rake is pretty self explanatory. If your dog has a double coat then you should use one to remove any dead and loose hairs from the undercoat of double coated dogs. It may be that you have a medium or long haired dog, a small or large dog.. It really does not matter what they look like or what breed they are. If you have a double coated dog then you need this brush.
Dog Comb – Every single breed needs a comb because it is essential for getting out tangles, smoothing the fur down after a bath and even to take care of fleas as well. It is the one piece of equipment that is not dependent on coat at all so invest in a god brush.
The ideal combinations for all coat types vary from dog to dog but most owners will only need a bristle brush and a comb. However, you may want to consider having a wire pin brush as well if you have a long coated breed. After all, you can chop and change as and when required.
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For more information on grooming your dog plus access to the popular FREE Dog Grooming newsletter – Please visit How To Easily Groom Your Dog – Guaranteed!
Groom Your Pet At Home – What Are the Benefits?
This in turn ensures that the cells get everything they need via the bloodstream. Similarly, dogs need to wash much the same as humans do in order to keep toxins that may get caught in the fur at bay because they can also cause problems with the coat and skin. Simply stated, dogs need bathing far more frequently that previously believed.
It enhances your dog’s overall health. Grooming enhances your dog’s overall health in a number of ways. It can ensure that your dog is mentally and physically in top condition as a result of the attention. Furthermore, it can improve the circulation, boost muscle mass and reduce the possibility of infection. By pairing grooming with a good diet, you can also boost your dog’s immune system, meaning that he or she will be less likely to become ill anyway.
It eliminates the smell associated with dogs. This point applies to both your dog and your home. Everyone knows that there is nothing worse than walking into a house and having your senses assaulted with the pungent odor of stale dog but you do not have to worry about that if you regularly groom your dog because it minimizes the smell. This applies to all breeds of dog, even those that have particularly long and thick coats.
It highlights any problems as and when they arise. This is not one of the more obvious reasons but it is a reason nevertheless because regular grooming enables you to notice changes in your dog’s body, which can be important in the diagnosis of many illnesses. For example, you will notice any cuts, grazes, lumps, swelling and even heat that occur. You may also notice slight differences in your dog’s general demeanor that may hint at depression or pain in some way. As such, if you notice these symptoms then you can seek help for your dog much quicker than would otherwise be possible.
It can cut down on the overall cost of grooming. If you pay for someone else to groom your dog, whether on a regular basis or for a six monthly coat trim. By regularly grooming your dog, you may not need to hire anyone else to provide personal attention for your dog in the first place. This will save you money and enhance the relationship between you and your dog.
Finally, and most importantly, it enhances the bond between you and your dog. As hinted at under the last point, grooming enhances the relationship between man and dog because it gives you a shared experience and one that is pleasurable for your canine companion. Dogs do enjoy grooming because it means that they get attention from their owners. All dogs absolutely love the attention. As such, it is an activity that you will be able to laugh at and your dog will be able to enjoy.
All of the above reasons should be more than enough to give you a push in the right direction because now you can see exactly why you and your dog can benefit from the process. Grooming is an essential part of owning a dog so the sooner you integrate it into your routine the better. The information in the ensuing chapters will most definitely be able to give you an idea as to where to start.
Is Your Dog’s Itchy Skin Due to Food Allergies?
As a devoted dog owner, you’re probably on the lookout for even the smallest sign that your pet’s life is not as comfortable as you can possibly make it. So when doggie starts scratching at his belly or biting at his back, you may immediately take him or her to the vet for a flea dip. You’ll also and use flea bombs all over the house in and attempt to have a flea-free environment for doggie’s return.
But what if you’ve done all of that, and within fifteen minutes of returning home, the scratching and biting resume?
If your dog shows signs of allergies, but you are quite certain it is not from inhalants in the environment, fleas in his coat or other health problems, your dog could suffer from food allergies.
If, for example, your dog has been eating one particular food or a favorite treat for several months or even years, he or she might have developed an allergy to one of the ingredients in that food.
Your dog can go for months or even years eating the same food with no problem, but over time his or her immune system will be accumulating enough antibodies to finally result in an allergic reaction. If your dog has a bad reaction to a food the first time he or she eats it, this is a food intolerance caused by a toxin in the food (and there are, unfortunately, more of them than you’d like to think) but it’s not an allergic reaction.
While it’s natural to think that if your dog has a food allergy, he or she will exhibit indigestion like nausea or diarrhea, almost all canine food allergies cause severely itching skin, and dogs with food allergies very often chew incessantly at their legs and paws. If your dog has intestinal distress after a meal, you are almost certainly looking at food intolerance and not an allergy.
The difficulty in diagnosing food allergies in dogs is that most dogs who are allergic will suffer from more than one allergy at a time. So even if you were to attempt to diagnose your dog’s food allergy by changing his or her diet, and your dog began experiencing the itching skin of a flea allergy, you might mistakenly think the change of diet was ineffective in treating the food allergy.
Finding the Source of the Allergy
The only way to determine the change in diet has been effective is to eliminate all other possible causes for your dog’s symptoms, and put your pet on what is known as an “elimination trial “ diet. You will feed your dog a diet which consists of a single protein and a single carbohydrate which you have never fed before, and water, for between two and three months. Because a food allergy takes months or years to develop, your dog will not be allergic to the new foods and should not become allergic to them in that amount of time.
Your vet may either recommend a commercial food which will suit the purposes of your elimination trial diet, or may suggest that you prepare your dog’s food at home. While your dog is on the elimination diet, you’ll have to be disciplined enough to avoid feeding treats or table scraps, and take away the chew toys. If there are other dogs around, keep your pet away from their droppings. Some dogs will nibble on other dogs’ waste, and even that will be enough to invalidate your elimination trial diet.
If your dog’s symptoms are seriously improved after two or three months on the elimination trial diet, you’ll know that a food allergy was causing them. If they haven’t improved, or have worsened, you’ll have to look elsewhere for their cause, but you can let your pet return to the old way of eating
One precaution: if you decide to make your dog’s elimination trial diet yourself, it won’t be fortified with the essential vitamins, trace minerals, and fatty acids necessary to maintain your pet’s health. So you’ll have to get supplements and add them to the food before feeding your pet.
Nothing is as unpleasant to you, a loving dog wonder as watching your cherished companion suffer needlessly. If your dog is constantly biting and itching, and you are reasonable certain that fleas are not responsible, talk to your vet about what you can do to determine if a food allergy is the culprit!
Sharda Baker has published several dog ebook and audios, including the internet best selling “Complete Guide to Your Dog’s Nutrition”.
Visit the link below now for Sharda’s Special Free Dog Food Report
Tear Stain Management
Are you battling tear stains on your white or light-colored dog? As a professional groomer, I see many, many dogs that exhibit unsightly tear stains and beard stains. In addition, some of these dogs are even discoloring their feet, legs and body with the saliva they leave on their fur from licking and chewing.
Possible Causes of Tear Stains
The staining is usually of a reddish color and sometimes emits an odor. It is important to attempt to determine the cause of the staining. Some possible causes are:
* genetic predisposition
* high mineral content in drinking water
* eye infection
* ear infection
* irritating eyelashes or hair that rub against the eye
* yeast infection (from the area around the eye remaining wet)
* blocked tear ducts
* diet
* parasites such as fleas and mites
* allergies
You should consult with your veterinarian or groomer to try to narrow down the potential cause of the tear staining. Once you have ruled out some of the obvious medical conditions such as infections, extra eyelashes, and blocked tear ducts, you will be able to address the conditions that you may well have control over.
If your dog is experiencing ear irritation or infection, there is a high incidence of the infection completely running through their body and resulting in multiple issues throughout. Many dogs we see that have tear staining are also affected with inner ear infections. So be sure to confirm that your dog’s ears are clean and free from infection. Your vet will prescribe the appropriate ear drops and/or antibiotics. You will have to be diligent in treating the ears as prescribed in order to alleviate the condition.
HOW TO MANAGE TEAR STAINING NOT MEDICALLY INDUCED
Dog owners need to evaluate the food they are feeding to their pets and be sure that they are using a high-quality dog food that is not rampant with sugar, salt, preservatives and chemicals. If you are feeding canned food to your dog, consider introducing a high-quality dry food to provide optimal nutrition.
The next item to look closely at is the water that your dog drinks. Tap water can be high in minerals and well water can be high in various items such as copper and iron which could contribute to the tear staining. A popular suggestion as of late is to train your dog to drink from a water bottle (thus preventing high-mineral water from sitting on the coat). Another idea it to use distilled water.
There are several products currently on the market that address the tear staining problem. Many of these products contain a percentage of antibiotic. Unless you are specifically dealing with an infection in your dog’s eyes or ears, it would be wise to discuss the ramifications of extended antibiotic usage with your veterinarian.
TEAR STAIN MANAGEMENT NATURALLY
There are two possible solutions to tear staining that can easily be implemented. The first is to add a small amount of white vinegar (1 teaspoon) to your pet’s water. Start with a smaller amount in the water until your pet can adjust to the taste. The vinegar changes the pH of the water.
Secondly, include a 1/2 teaspoon of cream cheese (yes, like Philadelphia brand) in your dog’s food or as a treat on a daily basis. Customers who have tried this method have found that the tear staining cleared up in three to four weeks.
In any event, please check with your vet to rule out any medical conditions, allergies or infections that may be causing the tear staining in your dog. Once you’ve ruled out those possibilities, you can address the other options. Always consult with your veterinarian when trying a new regimen.
What’s In Your Dog Food?
The AAFCO sets the standards for pet food safety and nutrition, and the testing done by the AAFCO is used to determine whether or not specific ingredients are acceptable as pet foods. But the AAFCO will rate both low and high quality ingredients as being nutritionally adequate, because there is a demand for pet food in all price ranges. So you need to learn how to read past the AAFCO approval statement on your dog food labels if you want to know what your dog is really consuming.
Reading a Dog Food Label
The label tells us many important facts and figures that may otherwise dissuade or persuade us from purchasing the food. In short, it is important to read the labels. To actually read that label, and not to just give it a cursory glance, we will have to first know a little something about what can be found there and what it means.
The first thing most of us notice on any label is the product name. The product name may also contain primary ingredient names such as “Beef Dog Chow”, or what kind of dog the food is intended for, such as “Puppies, Adult, Lactating”, etc.
If, in the product name, an ingredient is listed, say for example that “Beef Dog Chow”, that beef must be at least 95% of the total weight if there is no water required for processing, and at least 70% when water is included. So, for dry kibble, 95% of that weight needs to contain beef.
When the title contains “dinner, formula, nuggets,” and other similar words, the ingredient named must be at least 25% of the weight. So in a product named Lamb Dinner, 25% of the total weight for the product must be lamb.
But, if only ¼ of that entire product needs to consist of lamb, the lamb may not (and probably is not!) the main ingredient. Ingredients must be listed in a descending order of weight. So, even though the bag says Lamb Dinner, the lamb may be fourth in order.
Example:
- Lamb Dinner Ingredients: Corn, meat and bone meal, wheat, lamb.
In that Lamb Dinner, the main ingredients are really the corn and meat and bone meal. Not desirable for a healthy meal.
On the other hand if the ingredients listed were
- Premium Lamb Dinner Ingredients: Lamb, ground rice, ground yellow corn…
This presents a more desirable meal and one that your dog can actually consume and digest properly.
When it comes to the words “flavored” or “flavor” such as Lamb Flavored Nuggets, no exact percentage of the named ingredient, the lamb, needs to be present, but enough of that ingredient needs to present as to be detectable
Often times, the main ingredients will not be present in the title. In such a case, these foods often include items such as: ground yellow corn, meat byproducts, tallow, and other items that are not particularly digestible for your pet. The actual named ingredient will probably be down the list and make up only a very small part of the product.
Besides naming an ingredient with the product name, other phrases and adjectives are used.
Premium Dog Food, or X Premium and other like titles are making a justified boast, as these products complied with the nutritional standards for a complete and balanced dog food. This is definitely something to take into consideration when shopping.
Natural Dog Food means that there are no artificial colors, preservatives or flavors.
If a product has given the calorie content on the bag, “Premium Beef Dinner: now with lower calorie content,” this is done so voluntarily as a service to the consumer. Because the calorie content of pet foods does not have to be displayed in their labels, however, here’s a formula to help you make sure Buster is not eating too much:
Multiply the carbohydrate by 4.2kcal (kilocalories) per gram, the protein by 5.65, and then the fat by 9.4 kcal per gram. If you need to convert the kilocalories to kilojoules (another unit of measurement for energy) simply multiply the total by 4.184. Of course, rounding to the nearest ten might be helpful, as long as you keep in mind that it’s an approximation erring on the low side.
Where’s the Fat?
A good way to find the higher quality dog foods by reading the ingredient list is to search for that first source of fat. Everything that is listed before that fat source, and including it, is the main part of the food. Everything else is generally used for flavor, preservatives, vitamins, and minerals.
For example:
- Food A:Ground yellow corn, meat meal, chicken fat, ground wheat, chicken byproduct meal, dried beet pulp …
- Food B: Turkey, chicken, chicken meal, ground brown rice, ground white rice, chicken fat, apples, carrots, sunflower oil…
The importance of finding the source of fat and where it is listed is so you can find ingredients that may or may not be harmful to your pet, such as beet pulp or corn gluten meal.
Learning to read the labels on dog food is the single most important thing you can do if you intend to feed your pet a commercial diet. Buster may be the smartest dog who ever wore a collar, but he can’t read, and he needs to rely on you to keep him healthy.
If what’s in that can or bag doesn’t sound like something you’d want to eat, it’s probably not something your dog would eat if there were an alternative. So take the time to learn the language of labels!
Sharda Baker has published several dog ebook and audios, including the internet best selling “Complete Guide to Your Dog’s Nutrition”
Visit the link below now for Sharda’s Special Free Dog Food Report.
Recommended Resources
As a pet owner, you are looking for better ways to take care of your dog or cat. You are looking for training, grooming and nutrition information to help you provide the best environment for your pet. We’ve compiled some resources here for you to review. The first two are on training and grooming. Either of these would be well worth your time and money to review and put in to action. Feel free to ask questions…we look forward to your input.
| Want To Own A Well-Trained, Obedient, Healthy, Fully Housebroken, Disciplined & Happy Pet Dog?Introducing Hands-off Dog Training Secrets and Information With Fast, Effective Results That Save Hours Of Your Time Every Week!!Sign up for a FREE mini course on training your Dog |
| A New Free Course on Dog Grooming Reveals the Secret Step-by-Step Techniques used by the best Dog Groomers in the country!Finally, You Can Now Groom your Dog on your own at home without having to hire an expensive groomer! |
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